Hutong refers to a type of alley that originated in the Yuan Dynasty in 1276 AD. They are typically 6 walking steps wide, or about 9 meters across. I used to work in the Hutong area when I was younger (around 20 years ago).
There are many hutongs in Beijing, such as Beiguangang Hutong, Dajinsi Hutong, Xiaojinsi Hutong, etc. Among them, Beiguanfang Hutong is my favorite. It was also my first workplace many years ago.
Hello, I am Serena. I've been a local tour guide in Beijing for a few years, and I love the history of everything, especially the hutongs. I used to work in the hutong area when I was younger, and no matter how many jobs I've had since then, I have resolutely decided to return to being a hutong tour guide. Welcome to the hutongs of Beijing!
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- What Can You See in Beiguanfang Hutong
- How to Get to Beiguanfang Hutong
- Why Do I Love Beiguanfang Hutong
What Can You See in Beiguanfang Hutong?
Beiguanfang Hutong is less than 300 meters long. It once served as a temporary residence for officials who had just arrived in Beijing. Today, in addition to officials, it is also home to painters, calligraphers, and many ordinary residents.
Beiguanfang Hutong is a place where you can learn about traditional houses, the former social hierarchy, and the daily lives of ordinary people in Beijing.
The Gate of the House Reflects Social Status
I wandered around Beiguanfang Hutong one night.The houses here are made of grey bricks and grey tiles, with red gates. The sizes of the doors, the alignment of the door pillars (mendang), the number of steps, the height of the thresholds, and the carved patterns all reveal differences in the social hierarchy.
The orientation and height of the houses, as well as the arrangement of rooms for men and women, masters and servants, all demonstrate the distinctions in status.
A house with high steps in Beiguanfang Hutong shows high social status.In Beiguanfang Hutong, you can spot the homes of civil and military officials by the shape of the stones in front of their gates. You can see that one family has a very magnificent gate, which is said to have been purchased by a French journalist. There is also a Russian-style building in the northeast part of the hutong—can you guess whose house it is?
A canopy, a fish tank, a pomegranate tree, a tutor, a fat dog, and a plump maid all offer a true reflection of family life during that time.
Observe the Lively Activity in the Hutong
On working days, the hutong is always bustling with people, bicycles, scooters, and cars. Especially in the morning, it is busy with exercisers, breakfast eaters, people returning from night shifts, students dropping off others, and those needing to use the bathroom (Some courtyards have no bathrooms.).
All of them converge in the narrow alley. So, who goes first? They usually remain calm and resolve this issue as quickly as possible. Is parking space tight in the hutong? People never give up trying to park as close to the wall as possible, even leaving just a paper's width between the car and the wall.
It's common to see locals waiting in line to buy fermented bean drinks with fried rings from restaurants, or snacks from the San He Daoxiangcun snack shop to share with neighbors. Locals often walk with their birdcages (often containing talking parrots), Pekingese dogs (a well-known breed), and they never forget to bring a bottle of tea.
The calls of the vendors add a lively atmosphere to the hutong, with traditional Chinese snacks like candied hawthorns on a stick and glutinous rice rolls with sweet bean flour being popular choices.
Candied HawthornsAiwowo (sticky rice with nuts)How to Get to Beiguanfang Hutong
You can drive, but a small car is easier to navigate. The subway and public buses are also convenient options, and bicycles and rickshaws are the best choices.
Firstly, turn right from the Shichahai Sports School, pass the residence of Guo Moruo (a famous educator and archaeologist), keep going, and turn right (Prince Gong's Mansion is in the left direction). There is a small hutong opposite.
Walking towards Qianjing Hutong, Houxiaojing Hutong, or Nanguanfang Hutong, and Beiguanfang Hutong will be at the end of these alleys. After visiting Beiguanfang Hutong, you can head to Silver Ingot Bridge and Pipe Street, or exit the alley to see Back Lake.
If you take the subway, Line 8 could lead you there. Exit at A1 or A2 from Shichahai and walk to the entrance of Pipe Street. Walk around Silver Ingot Bridge, and you will find Beiguanfang Hutong.
Entrance of Beiguanfang HutongWhy Do I Love Beiguanfang Hutong?
When I worked here, every brick and tile, each family and house I passed, and every face I saw—whether happy or upset— all became part of my experiences here.
Shichahai Lake is nearby (actually, there are six lakes connected from north to south). Boats float on the lake, and the sound of beautiful music reaches my ears. I often felt refreshed and energetic while working, filled with memories.
In 2006, on my first day working as a hutong tour guide, it was in a cold winter. I wandered around to familiarize myself with the tourist route. A local resident, noticing me, was very hospitable and invited me to warm up in her home. "Oh, I'm okay," I said. I tried to refuse a few times, but eventually accepted her offer. They were very nice people who shared stories about their family and courtyard.
A few days ago, I visited Beiguanfang Hutong again. I walked through the same alley and took some pictures. I saw the family I had visited before- the light in their room was still bright, and the tree in their courtyard was still there.
As I approached the door, I felt so excited that I could hardly contain my emotions. I stood there, watching for a while. When I got close to another local family, I hesitated to take a step forward, afraid that they might not remember me, as the couple I knew was over 70 years old 19 years ago.
My guests visited the local family in the hutong.As a local tour guide, I highly recommend you to visit this hutong—not only because of its glorious past but also because it has a bright future. Beiguanfang Hutong connects to one side of Silver Ingot Bridge, with Pipe Street on the other side. You will see that it is a hidden gem!
You'll also have the chance to taste many authentic local Beijing dishes. For example, zhajiangmian (noodles with meat sauce), Peking duck, hot pot, hundred-year luzhu, baodu (pig or cow's belly), wandouhuang (pea), aiwowo (sticky rice), mendingroubing (beef pancake), jianzhi (paper cutting), tuye (clay rabbit), and more. I am sure you will enjoy it!
Wandouhuang (pea,sugar,water)Lvdagun (glutinous rice with red bean)Douzhir, jiaoquan, and xiancai